Mount Koiski: Difference between revisions

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Modern permits are divided into three levels, which are further subdivided by the side of the mountain and range of access. Climbers can choose a restricted permit, where they must stick to a set of designated standard routes, or unrestricted permits which give them unlimited access on the mountain up to the maximum altitude. Level 3 permits are all unrestricted as no official route to the summit yet exists.  
Modern permits are divided into three levels, which are further subdivided by the side of the mountain and range of access. Climbers can choose a restricted permit, where they must stick to a set of designated standard routes, or unrestricted permits which give them unlimited access on the mountain up to the maximum altitude. Level 3 permits are all unrestricted as no official route to the summit yet exists.  
{| class="wikitable"
|+Permit Types and Respective Evidence and Costs
!Permit Level
!Side
!Maximum Altitude/Camp
!Range
!Required Evidence
!Cost
|-
| rowspan="4" |Level 1
| rowspan="2" |North
| rowspan="2" |3,000m
|Unrestricted
| - Basic fitness assessment
AND


Since the introduction of permits in 2008, there have been a total of 67 recorded permit violations, including both climbers with no permit and climbers who exceed the boundaries of their permit. Violators are usually caught in the lower regions of the mountains, although several were discovered after being rescued. Generally, permit violations are punished with extended or lifelong bans on climbing in Olmeria, along with occasional fines, especially when rescue costs are incurred.
- Proof of off-piste mountaineering experience above 2,500m
 
There has been one case of permit fraud, when in 2027 a climber forged an OMC Advanced Mountaineering Certificate in order to be allowed to purchase a Level 3 permit. He was found by an Olmerian expedition descending the mountain at Camp 2, having fallen severely ill with altitude sickness, and was evacuated by rescue teams later that day. Officials then discovered his medical records and certificate had been forged, and he was eventually fined 10,000Ⱡ and banned from mountaineering in Olmeria.[[File:KMB Offices.jpg|thumb|The KMB headquarters in Härnösun|362x362px|left]]
[[File:Koiski Permit Fraud Rescue.jpg|center|thumb|275x275px|Rescue teams carry Hugo Ohlson down from the mountain after he got injured while using frauded documents to obtain a permit.]]
 
 
 


OR


- OMC Basic Mountaineering Certificate, with off-piste module (or equivalent)
|150Ⱡ
|-
|Restricted
| - None
|75Ⱡ
|-
| rowspan="2" |South
| rowspan="2" |
|Unrestricted
|
|
|-
|Restricted
|
|
|-
| rowspan="4" |Level 2
| rowspan="2" |North
| rowspan="2" |3,908m (12,795ft) - Camp 2
|Unrestricted
| - Proof of off-piste Mountaineering experience above 3,000m
- Moderate fitness assessment


- OMC Intermediate Mountaineering Certificate, with off-piste module (oe)
|500Ⱡ
|-
|Restricted
| - Basic fitness assessment
AND


- OMC Intermediate Mountaineering Certificate (oe)


OR


- A minimum of 2 official guides and an OMC Basic Mountaineering Certificate (oe)
|325Ⱡ
|-
| rowspan="2" |South
| rowspan="2" |
|Unrestricted
|
|
|-
|Restricted
|
|
|-
| rowspan="3" |Level 3
|North
| rowspan="3" |None
| rowspan="3" |Unrestricted
| rowspan="3" | - OMC Advanced Mountaineering Certificate
- Comprehensive fitness and medical assessments


- Fully comprehensive expedition plans and details
|1,200Ⱡ
|-
|South
|
|-
|Open
|1,500Ⱡ
|}
The range of the permit scheme has been criticised by some as disincentivising tourism in the region, as tourists require permits to climb at what would usually be considered amateur altitudes. However the OMC say the scheme is necessary for keeping people safe on the mountain, and allowing them to manage the numbers of people in the area. It also provides funds that are used to help maintain the lower regions of the mountain with waste disposal and route maintenance, as well as the yearly installations of ladders across the Tvedt Icefall.
{| class="wikitable floatright"
|+The total number of permits issued by the KMB in the last 10 years
!Year
!Permit Level
!# Issued
|-
|2025
|N/A
|
|-
|2026
|N/A
|
|-
|2027
|N/A
|
|-
|2028
|
|
|-
|2029
|
|
|-
|2030
|
|
|-
|2031
|
|
|-
|2032
|
|
|-
|2033
|
|
|-
|2034
|
|
|}
Since the introduction of permits in 2008, there have been a total of 67 recorded permit violations, including both climbers with no permit and climbers who exceed the boundaries of their permit. Violators are usually caught in the lower regions of the mountains, although several were discovered after being rescued. Generally, permit violations are punished with extended or lifelong bans on climbing in Olmeria, along with occasional fines, especially when rescue costs are incurred.


There has been one case of permit fraud, when in 2027 a climber forged an OMC Advanced Mountaineering Certificate in order to be allowed to purchase a Level 3 permit. He was found by an Olmerian expedition descending the mountain at Camp 2, having fallen severely ill with altitude sickness, and was evacuated by rescue teams later that day. Officials then discovered his medical records and certificate had been forged, and he was eventually fined 10,000Ⱡ and banned from mountaineering in Olmeria.[[File:KMB Offices.jpg|thumb|The KMB headquarters in Härnösun|362x362px|left]]
[[File:Koiski Permit Fraud Rescue.jpg|center|thumb|275x275px|Rescue teams carry Hugo Ohlson down from the mountain after he got injured while using frauded documents to obtain a permit.]]


=== Routes and Camps ===
=== Routes and Camps ===