Mount Koiski: Difference between revisions
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The name Koiski comes from the ancient Cordish word "Koisk", literally "the chief", "the leader". Koiski was the name of the primary god in most ancient Olmerian religions, recognised in traditional texts as chief of both the gods and the people. It particularly recognised the nature of Koiski as above any human chieftains the religious populace may have had, with the regular word for chieftain of a tribe being "höva", and the great chieftains of 500AD-1000AD known as "höva storstes" . Koiski therefore, meant chief of all, or chief of the world, separating the god from earthly leadership figures. | The name Koiski comes from the ancient Cordish word "Koisk", literally "the chief", "the leader". Koiski was the name of the primary god in most ancient Olmerian religions, recognised in traditional texts as chief of both the gods and the people. It particularly recognised the nature of Koiski as above any human chieftains the religious populace may have had, with the regular word for chieftain of a tribe being "höva", and the great chieftains of 500AD-1000AD known as "höva storstes" . Koiski therefore, meant chief of all, or chief of the world, separating the god from earthly leadership figures. | ||
Mt Koiski itself has been known as such since its formal discovery around the 13th century, although its possible the mountain was discovered, and other names originated much earlier than this without proof in existing written records discovered by historians, and were then overtaken by the usage of Koiski. It believed to have been named by a Nordic monk by the name of Ukko on a pilgrimage, who had gotten lost and ventured further into the mountains than anyone had previously. Upon catching sight of Mt. Koiski's peak, he reportedly fainted in disbelief of its magnitude, and upon returned declared that the mountain must be a symbol of Koiski on earth. Religious groups who later travelled to see the mountain gradually began to call it this, and the site soon became a place of holy significance, accelerating the spread of the new name. In fact, Ukko himself was later recognised as a Kotka ( | Mt Koiski itself has been known as such since its formal discovery around the 13th century, although its possible the mountain was discovered, and other names originated much earlier than this without proof in existing written records discovered by historians, and were then overtaken by the usage of Koiski. It believed to have been named by a Nordic monk by the name of Ukko on a pilgrimage, who had gotten lost and ventured further into the mountains than anyone had previously. Upon catching sight of Mt. Koiski's peak, he reportedly fainted in disbelief of its magnitude, and upon returned declared that the mountain must be a symbol of Koiski on earth. Religious groups who later travelled to see the mountain gradually began to call it this, and the site soon became a place of holy significance, accelerating the spread of the new name. In fact, Ukko himself was later recognised as a Kotka (saint) in many traditional Nordic religions, and is worshipped as such to this day. | ||
{{Selected quote|quote=I have seen what before I would not have believed. Such divine beauty, such might, and such inspiration that came upon me. It is, with no doubt, Koiski on earth, come to watch so that he might learn of our ways and watch our wrongs|quoted=Ukko (Nordic Monk)|dates=c.1283|source=Chronicles of Kotka Ukko (English translation)|section=Chapter 3: Gods in Beauty}} | {{Selected quote|quote=I have seen what before I would not have believed. Such divine beauty, such might, and such inspiration that came upon me. It is, with no doubt, Koiski on earth, come to watch so that he might learn of our ways and watch our wrongs|quoted=Ukko (Nordic Monk)|dates=c.1283|source=Chronicles of Kotka Ukko (English translation)|section=Chapter 3: Gods in Beauty}} | ||
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|- | |- | ||
|2030 | |2030 | ||
| | |42 | ||
| | |828 | ||
| | |870 | ||
|- | |- | ||
|2031 | |2031 | ||
| | |66 | ||
| | |1,073 | ||
| | |1,139 | ||
|- | |- | ||
|2032 | |2032 | ||
| | |96 | ||
| | |1,438 | ||
| | |1,534 | ||
|- | |- | ||
|2033 | |2033 | ||
| | |81 | ||
| | |1,592 | ||
| | |1,673 | ||
|- | |- | ||
|2034 | |2034 | ||
| | |85 | ||
| | |1,802 | ||
| | |1,887 | ||
|}Modern permits are divided into three levels, which are further subdivided by the side of the mountain and range of access. Climbers can choose a restricted permit, where they must stick to a set of designated standard routes, or unrestricted permits which give them unlimited access on the mountain up to the maximum altitude. Level 3 permits are all unrestricted as no official route to the summit yet exists. The permit system allows climbers to apply in teams but individual evidence and payment must be given for each climber so that everyone in the team is certified as qualified to climb. | |}Modern permits are divided into three levels, which are further subdivided by the side of the mountain and range of access. Climbers can choose a restricted permit, where they must stick to a set of designated standard routes, or unrestricted permits which give them unlimited access on the mountain up to the maximum altitude. Level 3 permits are all unrestricted as no official route to the summit yet exists. The permit system allows climbers to apply in teams but individual evidence and payment must be given for each climber so that everyone in the team is certified as qualified to climb. | ||
Permits generally require [[OMC mountaineering certificates]], qualifications that can be gained through a number of OMC certified courses both in Olmeria and abroad. A number of foreign equivalent certificates are also accepted. | Permits generally require [[OMC mountaineering certificates]], qualifications that can be gained through a number of OMC certified courses both in Olmeria and abroad. A number of foreign equivalent certificates are also accepted. | ||
Permit sales show a continued upwards trend in the mountains popularity, with a record 15 summit attempts | Permit sales show a continued upwards trend in the mountains popularity, with a record 15 separate teams making summit attempts in 2032. | ||
{| class="wikitable" | {| class="wikitable" | ||
| Line 146: | Line 146: | ||
|Open | |Open | ||
|1,500Ⱡ | |1,500Ⱡ | ||
|}[[File:Koiski Permit Fraud Rescue.jpg|thumb|210x210px|Rescue teams carry Hugo Ohlson down from the mountain after he got injured while using frauded documents to obtain a permit.]]The range of the permit scheme has been criticised by some as disincentivising tourism in the region, as tourists require permits to climb at what would usually be considered amateur altitudes. However the OMC say the scheme is necessary for keeping people safe on the mountain, and allowing them to manage the numbers of people in the area. It also provides funds that are used to help maintain the lower regions of the mountain with waste disposal and route maintenance, as well as the yearly installations of ladders across the Tvedt Icefall. | |} | ||
===== Criticism ===== | |||
[[File:Koiski Permit Fraud Rescue.jpg|thumb|210x210px|Rescue teams carry Hugo Ohlson down from the mountain after he got injured while using frauded documents to obtain a permit.]]The range of the permit scheme has been criticised by some as disincentivising tourism in the region, as tourists require permits to climb at what would usually be considered amateur altitudes. However the OMC say the scheme is necessary for keeping people safe on the mountain, and allowing them to manage the numbers of people in the area. It also provides funds that are used to help maintain the lower regions of the mountain with waste disposal and route maintenance, as well as the yearly installations of ladders across the Tvedt Icefall. | |||
Others say the scheme should be adjusted to allow climbers wishing to summit Koiski's daughter summits, Mt Myrar and Mt Haugr, to avoid the full price of a level 3 permit, arguing that this would boost tourism in the region and encourage skilled mountaineering expeditions in the area, which may in future increase the chance of a successful summit. | |||
The OMB conducts a review of the permit system every 5 years, the next of which is due to take place in 2040. | |||
===== Permit Violations ===== | |||
Since the introduction of permits in 2008, there have been a total of 67 recorded permit violations, including both climbers with no permit and climbers who exceed the boundaries of their permit. Violators are usually caught in the lower regions of the mountains, although several were discovered after being rescued. Generally, permit violations are punished with extended or lifelong bans on climbing in Olmeria, along with occasional fines, especially when rescue costs are incurred. | Since the introduction of permits in 2008, there have been a total of 67 recorded permit violations, including both climbers with no permit and climbers who exceed the boundaries of their permit. Violators are usually caught in the lower regions of the mountains, although several were discovered after being rescued. Generally, permit violations are punished with extended or lifelong bans on climbing in Olmeria, along with occasional fines, especially when rescue costs are incurred. | ||
| Line 153: | Line 161: | ||
=== Routes and Camps === | === Routes and Camps === | ||
==== Base Camps ==== | |||
There are two official Mt Koiski Base Camps, both of which are maintained by the Koiski Management Board. The North Camp is by far the most popular, and is capable of hosting more than 1,000 people | |||
==== North Side ==== | ==== North Side ==== | ||
| Line 160: | Line 171: | ||
|+Camps and Waymarkers on the North Side | |+Camps and Waymarkers on the North Side | ||
!Location | !Location | ||
!Altitude | !Altitude (m) | ||
!Longitudinal Distance From Summit | !Longitudinal Distance From Summit | ||
|- | |- | ||
|Base Camp | |Base Camp | ||
| | |2,306 | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
|Tvedt Icefall | |Tvedt Icefall | ||
| | |2,450 - 2,800 | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
|Camp 1 | |Camp 1 | ||
| | |3,255 | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
|Camp 2 | |Camp 2 | ||
| | |4,103 | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
|Myrar Summit | |Myrar Summit | ||
| | |4,729 | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
|Haugr Summit | |Haugr Summit | ||
| | |5,101 | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
|Camp 3 | |Camp 3 | ||
| | |4,818 | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
|Camp 4* | |Camp 4* | ||
| | |5,137 | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
|Summit | |Summit | ||
| | |6,085 | ||
| | | | ||
|} | |} | ||
<nowiki>*</nowiki>Proposed 4th camp, no | <nowiki>*</nowiki>Proposed 4th camp, no expeditions have successfully reached the site | ||
The north side of Mt Koiski hosts the so-called standard route, where the majority of summit attempts begin, in addition to the primary location for shorter climbs into the mountain's foothills. Climbers begin at Base Camp, 2,306m above sea level, which can be reached in around 8-10 days of hiking from the closest major settlement Härnösun. Härnösun itself hosts a small airport, providing flights to and from the rest of Olmeria, in addition to a substantial mountaineering sector. Local guides can be hired from here to assist in transporting equipment to base camp, or leading smaller expeditions. These guides have also participated in all but one summit attempt to date, although this is usually arranged prior to a teams arrival in Härnösun. It is also possible to charter a helicopter for people or equipment from Härnösun to Base Camp, an option utilised by wealthy tourists and rescue services in the case of disasters. However most serious summit attempts have begun with the hike to Base Camp to allow for basic acclimatisation and prepare the body for the climb to come. | |||
Teams traditionally spend around 4-5 weeks based at base camp, making short expeditions up the mountain for acclimatisation and familiarisation with the route. Once aptly acclimatised at the lower altitudes of the mountain, teams complete the full day trek up across the [[Tvedt Icefall]] and through 950m of elevation to the official camp 1. Completing this in a day is in itself challenging, and several teams have attempted to split the leg by camping for a night at the top of the icefall (around 500m above base camp). From camp 1, teams will generally spend a further 2 weeks recovering and continuing to acclimatise, making short day hikes further up the mountain. | |||
=== Expeditions === | |||
=== | === Accidents and Fatalities === | ||
== Tourism and Revenue == | |||
[[Category: Olmeria]] | [[Category: Olmeria]] | ||
{{Template:Award winning article}} | {{Template:Award winning article}} | ||
[[Category:2024 Award winning pages]] | [[Category:2024 Award winning pages]] | ||
[[Category:IXWB]] | [[Category:IXWB]] | ||