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Mount Koiski: Difference between revisions
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In 2008, the regional Mätvhas council introduced mandatory permits for anyone making a summit attempt on Mt Koiski. This came after the [[2006 Mt Koiski Disaster]], when a group of unprepared amateur mountaineers attempted to climb the mountain, leading to 15 deaths and tens of thousands of Lund in evacuation and rescue costs. Climbers were now required to prove prior mountaineering experience and medical fitness in order to receive a permit to make a formal summit attempt. However further rescues and deaths of inexperienced climbers in the 2009 and 2010 seasons demonstrated that the permits had not gone far enough, with people legally climbing into dangerous regions without formally making a summit attempt. Before the 2011 climbing season, the Koiski Management Board, who were now in charge of organising tourism and climbing on the mountain, extended the reach of the permit to any climbs above 3,900m (12,795ft), or around camp 2. The board also introduced a permit fee of 500Ⱡ to raise funds for the proper management of the mountain. In 2020 this was further extended, with a three tier permit system introduced, each with a different cost and burden of proof depending on the level of permit. Climbers or tourists now required a permit for any access to Koiski base camp or above (on either side of the mountain). Permits also now acted as emergency cards, with team and medical details on their reverse. This has saved several people when losing or forgetting standard emergency cards. Climbers must have a permit on them at all times on the mountain, although exception can be made in cases of an emergency explaining the loss of permit. No major changes have been made to the permit system since 2020. | In 2008, the regional Mätvhas council introduced mandatory permits for anyone making a summit attempt on Mt Koiski. This came after the [[2006 Mt Koiski Disaster]], when a group of unprepared amateur mountaineers attempted to climb the mountain, leading to 15 deaths and tens of thousands of Lund in evacuation and rescue costs. Climbers were now required to prove prior mountaineering experience and medical fitness in order to receive a permit to make a formal summit attempt. However further rescues and deaths of inexperienced climbers in the 2009 and 2010 seasons demonstrated that the permits had not gone far enough, with people legally climbing into dangerous regions without formally making a summit attempt. Before the 2011 climbing season, the Koiski Management Board, who were now in charge of organising tourism and climbing on the mountain, extended the reach of the permit to any climbs above 3,900m (12,795ft), or around camp 2. The board also introduced a permit fee of 500Ⱡ to raise funds for the proper management of the mountain. In 2020 this was further extended, with a three tier permit system introduced, each with a different cost and burden of proof depending on the level of permit. Climbers or tourists now required a permit for any access to Koiski base camp or above (on either side of the mountain). Permits also now acted as emergency cards, with team and medical details on their reverse. This has saved several people when losing or forgetting standard emergency cards. Climbers must have a permit on them at all times on the mountain, although exception can be made in cases of an emergency explaining the loss of permit. No major changes have been made to the permit system since 2020. | ||
Modern permits are divided into three levels, which are further subdivided by the side of the mountain and range of access. Climbers can choose a restricted permit, where they must stick to a set of designated standard routes, or unrestricted permits which give them unlimited access on the mountain up to the maximum altitude. Level 3 permits are all unrestricted as no route to the summit yet exists | Modern permits are divided into three levels, which are further subdivided by the side of the mountain and range of access. Climbers can choose a restricted permit, where they must stick to a set of designated standard routes, or unrestricted permits which give them unlimited access on the mountain up to the maximum altitude. Level 3 permits are all unrestricted as no official route to the summit yet exists. | ||
{| class="wikitable" | {| class="wikitable" | ||
|+Permit Types and Respective Evidence and Costs | |+Permit Types and Respective Evidence and Costs | ||
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|Open | |Open | ||
|1,500Ⱡ | |1,500Ⱡ | ||
|} | |||
The range of the permit scheme has been criticised by some as disincentivising tourism in the region, as tourists require permits to climb at what would usually be considered amateur altitudes. However the OMC say the scheme is necessary for keeping people safe on the mountain, and allowing them to manage the numbers of people in the area. It also provides funds that are used to help maintain the lower regions of the mountain with waste disposal and route maintenance, as well as the yearly installations of ladders across the Tvedt Icefall. | |||
[[File:KMB Offices.jpg|thumb|The KMB HQ]] | |||
{| class="wikitable" | |||
|+The number of permits issued by the KMB each year since 2008 | |||
!Year | |||
!Permit Level | |||
!# Issued | |||
|- | |||
|2008 | |||
|N/A | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|2009 | |||
|N/A | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|2010 | |||
|N/A | |||
| | |||
|} | |} | ||