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Mount Koiski: Difference between revisions
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{{Infobox mountain|name=Mount Koiski|etymology=Traditional Norse religious texts and sayings, ancient Cordish.|translation="Chief of the Gods"|pronunciation={{IPA-en|kɪ́jɔsgi}}|location=Olmeria|elevation=6,085m|prominence=1,143m|range=li Mätvhas|first_ascent=Never|easiest_route=Unknown|elevation_ft=19,964|prominence_ft=3750}} | {{Infobox mountain|name=Mount Koiski|etymology=Traditional Norse religious texts and sayings, ancient Cordish.|translation="Chief of the Gods"|pronunciation={{IPA-en|kɪ́jɔsgi}}|location=Olmeria|elevation=6,085m|prominence=1,143m|range=li Mätvhas|first_ascent=Never|easiest_route=Unknown|elevation_ft=19,964|prominence_ft=3750}} | ||
'''Mount Koiski''' is a mountain in the [[Mätvhas|li Mätvhas]] range, in central Olmeria. Its peak is more than 6,000m (19,685ft) above sea level, making it the tallest mountain in Olmeria and amongst the biggest in [[Ultmar]]. While the lower regions of the mountain's foothills are a popular tourist site, few venture up the mountain in earnest. In fact, no-one has yet summited the peak, although 608 people have officially tried, with 54 of them dying in the attempt. While the mountain is not in the ranks of the worlds tallest, with it's 6,085m (19,964ft) summit well below the so called death zone, long and exposed climbing routes, avalanche risks, extreme cold, altitude sickness and the sheer extent of the climb from base camp at only 2,306m (7,566ft) make it extremely deadly. Particularly, because base camp is so low and the climb so long, it becomes much harder to acclimatise to higher altitudes and minimise altitude sickness. | '''Mount Koiski''' is a mountain in the [[Mätvhas|li Mätvhas]] range, in central [[Olmeria]]. Its peak is more than 6,000m (19,685ft) above sea level, making it the tallest mountain in Olmeria and amongst the biggest in [[Ultmar]]. While the lower regions of the mountain's foothills are a popular tourist site, few venture up the mountain in earnest. In fact, no-one has yet summited the peak, although 608 people have officially tried, with 54 of them dying in the attempt. While the mountain is not in the ranks of the worlds tallest, with it's 6,085m (19,964ft) summit well below the so called death zone, long and exposed climbing routes, avalanche risks, extreme cold, altitude sickness and the sheer extent of the climb from base camp at only 2,306m (7,566ft) make it extremely deadly. Particularly, because base camp is so low and the climb so long, it becomes much harder to acclimatise to higher altitudes and minimise altitude sickness. | ||
== Name == | == Name == | ||
| Line 22: | Line 22: | ||
=== Permits === | === Permits === | ||
In 2008, the regional Mätvhas council introduced mandatory permits for anyone making a summit attempt on Mt Koiski. This came after the [[2006 Mt Koiski Disaster]], when a group of unprepared amateur mountaineers attempted to climb the mountain, leading to 15 deaths and tens of thousands of Lund in evacuation and rescue costs. Climbers were now required to prove prior mountaineering experience and medical fitness in order to receive a permit to make a formal summit attempt. However further rescues and deaths of inexperienced climbers in the 2009 and 2010 seasons demonstrated that the permits had not gone far enough, with people legally climbing into dangerous regions without formally making a summit attempt. Before the 2011 climbing season, the Koiski Management Board, who were now in charge of organising tourism and climbing on the mountain, extended the reach of the permit to any climbs above 3,900m (12,795ft), or around camp 2. The board also introduced a permit fee of 500Ⱡ to raise funds for the proper management of the mountain | [[File:Mount Koiski Mountain Permit Lvl 3.png|thumb|254x254px|An online issue level 3 open mountain permit from 2030. ]] | ||
In 2008, the regional Mätvhas council introduced mandatory permits for anyone making a summit attempt on Mt Koiski. This came after the [[2006 Mt Koiski Disaster]], when a group of unprepared amateur mountaineers attempted to climb the mountain, leading to 15 deaths and tens of thousands of Lund in evacuation and rescue costs. Climbers were now required to prove prior mountaineering experience and medical fitness in order to receive a permit to make a formal summit attempt. However further rescues and deaths of inexperienced climbers in the 2009 and 2010 seasons demonstrated that the permits had not gone far enough, with people legally climbing into dangerous regions without formally making a summit attempt. Before the 2011 climbing season, the Koiski Management Board, who were now in charge of organising tourism and climbing on the mountain, extended the reach of the permit to any climbs above 3,900m (12,795ft), or around camp 2. The board also introduced a permit fee of 500Ⱡ to raise funds for the proper management of the mountain. | |||
Modern permits are divided into three levels, which are further subdivided by the side of the mountain and range of access, | In 2020 this was further extended, with a three tier permit system introduced, each with a different cost and burden of proof depending on the level of permit. Climbers or tourists now required a permit for any access to Koiski base camp or above (on either side of the mountain). Permits also now acted as emergency cards, with team and medical details on their reverse. This has saved several people when losing or forgetting standard emergency cards. Climbers must have a permit on them at all times on the mountain, although exception can be made in cases of an emergency explaining the loss of permit. No major changes have been made to the permit system since 2020. | ||
Modern permits are divided into three levels, which are further subdivided by the side of the mountain and range of access. Climbers can choose a restricted permit, where they must stick to a set of designated standard routes, or unrestricted permits which give them unlimited access on the mountain up to the maximum altitude. Level 3 permits are all unrestricted as no official route to the summit yet exists. | |||
{| class="wikitable" | {| class="wikitable" | ||
|+Permit Types and Respective Evidence and Costs | |+Permit Types and Respective Evidence and Costs | ||
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| rowspan="4" |Level 1 | | rowspan="4" |Level 1 | ||
| rowspan="2" |North | | rowspan="2" |North | ||
| rowspan="2" | | | rowspan="2" |3,000m | ||
|Unrestricted | |Unrestricted | ||
| | | - Basic fitness assessment | ||
AND | |||
- Proof of off-piste mountaineering experience above 2,500m | |||
OR | |||
- OMC Basic Mountaineering Certificate, with off-piste module (or equivalent) | |||
|150Ⱡ | |150Ⱡ | ||
|- | |- | ||
|Restricted | |Restricted | ||
| | | - None | ||
|75Ⱡ | |75Ⱡ | ||
|- | |- | ||
| Line 57: | Line 67: | ||
| rowspan="4" |Level 2 | | rowspan="4" |Level 2 | ||
| rowspan="2" |North | | rowspan="2" |North | ||
| rowspan="2" | | | rowspan="2" |3,908m (12,795ft) - Camp 2 | ||
|Unrestricted | |Unrestricted | ||
| | | - Proof of off-piste Mountaineering experience above 3,000m | ||
| | - Moderate fitness assessment | ||
- OMC Intermediate Mountaineering Certificate, with off-piste module (oe) | |||
|500Ⱡ | |||
|- | |- | ||
|Restricted | |Restricted | ||
| | | - Basic fitness assessment | ||
| | AND | ||
- OMC Intermediate Mountaineering Certificate (oe) | |||
OR | |||
- A minimum of 2 official guides and an OMC Basic Mountaineering Certificate (oe) | |||
|325Ⱡ | |||
|- | |- | ||
| rowspan="2" |South | | rowspan="2" |South | ||
| Line 80: | Line 100: | ||
| rowspan="3" |None | | rowspan="3" |None | ||
| rowspan="3" |Unrestricted | | rowspan="3" |Unrestricted | ||
| rowspan="3" | - OMC Advanced Mountaineering Certificate | |||
- Comprehensive fitness and medical assessments | |||
- Fully comprehensive expedition plans and details | |||
|1,200Ⱡ | |||
|- | |||
|South | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|Open | |||
|1,500Ⱡ | |||
|} | |||
The range of the permit scheme has been criticised by some as disincentivising tourism in the region, as tourists require permits to climb at what would usually be considered amateur altitudes. However the OMC say the scheme is necessary for keeping people safe on the mountain, and allowing them to manage the numbers of people in the area. It also provides funds that are used to help maintain the lower regions of the mountain with waste disposal and route maintenance, as well as the yearly installations of ladders across the Tvedt Icefall. | |||
{| class="wikitable floatright" | |||
|+The total number of permits issued by the KMB in the last 10 years | |||
!Year | |||
!Permit Level | |||
!# Issued | |||
|- | |||
|2025 | |||
|N/A | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|2026 | |||
|N/A | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|2027 | |||
|N/A | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|2028 | |||
| | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|2029 | |||
| | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|2030 | |||
| | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|2031 | |||
| | | | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
| | |2032 | ||
| | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|2033 | |||
| | | | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
| | |2034 | ||
| | | | ||
| | | | ||
|} | |} | ||
Since the introduction of permits in 2008, there have been a total of 67 recorded permit violations, including both climbers with no permit and climbers who exceed the boundaries of their permit. Violators are usually caught in the lower regions of the mountains, although several were discovered after being rescued. Generally, permit violations are punished with extended or lifelong bans on climbing in Olmeria, along with occasional fines, especially when rescue costs are incurred. | |||
There has been one case of permit fraud, when in 2027 a climber forged an OMC Advanced Mountaineering Certificate in order to be allowed to purchase a Level 3 permit. He was found by an Olmerian expedition descending the mountain at Camp 2, having fallen severely ill with altitude sickness, and was evacuated by rescue teams later that day. Officials then discovered his medical records and certificate had been forged, and he was eventually fined 10,000Ⱡ and banned from mountaineering in Olmeria.[[File:KMB Offices.jpg|thumb|The KMB headquarters in Härnösun|362x362px|left]] | |||
[[File:Koiski Permit Fraud Rescue.jpg|center|thumb|275x275px|Rescue teams carry Hugo Ohlson down from the mountain after he got injured while using frauded documents to obtain a permit.]] | |||
=== Routes and Camps === | === Routes and Camps === | ||
==== North Side ==== | ==== North Side ==== | ||
[[File:Mt Koiski Climbing Map (North Side).png | [[File:Mt Koiski Climbing Map (North Side).png|frame|The "standard route" up Mt Koiski's north side. The furthest point climbed on this route and proposed final section are marked.|left]] | ||
{| class="wikitable" | |||
|+Camps and Waymarkers on the North Side | |||
!Location | |||
!Altitude | |||
!Longitudinal Distance From Summit | |||
|- | |||
|Base Camp | |||
| | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|Tvedt Icefall | |||
| | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|Camp 1 | |||
| | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|Camp 2 | |||
| | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|Myrar Summit | |||
| | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|Haugr Summit | |||
| | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|Camp 3 | |||
| | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|Camp 4* | |||
| | |||
| | |||
|- | |||
|Summit | |||
| | |||
| | |||
|} | |||
<nowiki>*</nowiki>Proposed 4th camp, no succesful | |||
The north side of Mt Koiski hosts the so-called standard route, where the majority of summit attempts begin, in addition to the primary location for shorter climbs into the mountain's foothills. Climbers begin at Base Camp, 2,305m above sea level, which can be reached in around 8-10 days of hiking from the closest major settlement Härnösun. Härnösun itself hosts a small airport, providing flights to and from the rest of Olmeria, in addition to a substantial mountaineering sector. Local guides can be hired from here to assist in transporting equipment to base camp, or leading smaller expeditions. These guides have also participated in all but one summit attempt to date, although this is usually arranged prior to a teams arrival in Härnösun. It is also possible to charter a helicopter for people or equipment from Härnösun to Base Camp, an option utilised by wealthy tourists and rescue services in the case of disasters. However most serious summit attempts have begun with the hike to Base Camp to allow for basic acclimatisation and prepare the body for the climb to come. | The north side of Mt Koiski hosts the so-called standard route, where the majority of summit attempts begin, in addition to the primary location for shorter climbs into the mountain's foothills. Climbers begin at Base Camp, 2,305m above sea level, which can be reached in around 8-10 days of hiking from the closest major settlement Härnösun. Härnösun itself hosts a small airport, providing flights to and from the rest of Olmeria, in addition to a substantial mountaineering sector. Local guides can be hired from here to assist in transporting equipment to base camp, or leading smaller expeditions. These guides have also participated in all but one summit attempt to date, although this is usually arranged prior to a teams arrival in Härnösun. It is also possible to charter a helicopter for people or equipment from Härnösun to Base Camp, an option utilised by wealthy tourists and rescue services in the case of disasters. However most serious summit attempts have begun with the hike to Base Camp to allow for basic acclimatisation and prepare the body for the climb to come. | ||
Teams traditionally spend around 4-5 weeks based at base camp, making short expeditions up the mountain for acclimatisation and familiarisation with the route. Once aptly acclimatised at the lower altitudes of the mountain, teams complete the full day trek up across the [[Tvedt Icefall]] and through 950m of elevation to the official camp 1. Completing this in a day is in itself challenging, and several teams have attempted to split the leg by camping for a night at the top of the icefall (around 500m above base camp). From here, teams will spend a further 2 weeks recovering and continuing to acclimatise, making short day hikes further up the mountain. | Teams traditionally spend around 4-5 weeks based at base camp, making short expeditions up the mountain for acclimatisation and familiarisation with the route. Once aptly acclimatised at the lower altitudes of the mountain, teams complete the full day trek up across the [[Tvedt Icefall]] and through 950m of elevation to the official camp 1. Completing this in a day is in itself challenging, and several teams have attempted to split the leg by camping for a night at the top of the icefall (around 500m above base camp). From here, teams will spend a further 2 weeks recovering and continuing to acclimatise, making short day hikes further up the mountain. | ||
=== Expeditions === | |||
[[Category: Olmeria]] | |||